Which Is Best For You?

How to determine which skeg (wear rod) will work best for you...

Most of us never want to spend any more than we have to, to have fun. But we will spend what it takes!

Non-Studded Track

• If you are looking for durability, and do not stud your track, our hardsurfaced skeg is ideal.

• If you have no studs in the track, but want a little bite in the corners, you may put a carbide (4") on the right side. We recommend our hardsurfaced skeg on the left. Once the carbide is not working, replace it, and move it to the left side, when needed. That way, you will get full value out of the rods.

• 121" - 1 1/4" lugs - Type II (6") at least

• 133" Type II (6") at least

• 136" - 1" - 1 1/4" lugs - Type III (6") / TP 18" at least

• 144" - 156" Type IV (8") Type VI (10") / TP24

Studded Track

• If you have 96 studs, or less, in the track Type I (4") carbide would match up fine.

• If you were to use the Type II (6") carbide with 96 studs, the track would tend to break loose in the corners. If your tail end isn't breaking loose, you are not going as fast around the corners as a Type II (6") is capable of. You would get more miles of new carbide bite for your money if you put the cost difference towards a new sharp pair of Type I (4").

• If you were to use the Type V (10") carbide with only 96 studs and take a corner as fast as a 10" carbide can, your tail end will pass you several times.

• Both the Type II (6") and Type III (6") will work with 144 studs. If you sit down taking corners,  the Type II (6") will work fine. If you hang off the handlebars in the corners, use Type III (6").

• Studs in the center only push the sled straight so you will need longer turning carbide for the same number of studs.

• 96 studs in the center of the track only - Type II 6" / Type III 6" / TP18"

• 144 studs in the center of the track only - Type IV / Type V / TP24"

• If you are going into a left turn, leaning into the turn increases pressure on the left sliderails. Having studs in the left outside band holds the sled tighter in the corner, than if the studs were only in the center. Stud installation history

Studded Track - Cornering

• Track studs push you straight, so you must have enough carbide to overcome the push when you want to turn. (See wear rod model descriptions for suggestions)

Other Carbide Info

• Longer carbide does not translate into durability, unless you are only riding on bare pavement.

• A 4" and a 10" carbide will be dull at the same time because pavement takes an even cut the whole length of the carbide so overkill does not pay. A sharp 4" will turn better on ice than a dull 10".