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Which Is Best For You?

The finest wear rods and... we can prove it!

How to determine which skeg (wear rod) will work best for you…

Most of us don’t want to spend anymore than we have to, to have fun, but we will spend what it takes!

Be sure to read all the RED information

Non-Studded Track

121” shorter than 1” lugs –
4” carbides
OR4” Triple Points

121” – 1” to 11/4” lugs –
6” carbides
OR
- 6” Triple Points
OR- 8” Triple Points if you weigh over 200 lbs and like to fly by the seat of your pants.

133” – shorter than 1” lugs –
6” carbides

133”- 1” to 1 ¼” lugs -
6” carbides if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times.
OR6” Triple Points
OR 8” Triple Points if you weigh over 200 lbs and like to fly by the seat of your pants.

136” – shorter than 1” lugs –
6” carbides
or6” Triple Points if you weigh under 200 lbs

136” – 1” to 1 ¼” lugs –
6” carbides if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times.
OR6” Triple Points for touring if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times.
OR8” Triple Points if you weigh over 200 lbs and like to fly by the seat of your pants.

144” – 156” –
8” carbides if only occasional trail riding
OR8” Triple Points if significant trail riding


These longer tracks depend on the riders shifting their weight over the track to turn the sled!!!

Keep in mind, if you only ride fast on lakes and trainbeds, where the field of vision is good, you can use a shorter carbide because you have more time to react. If you want to drive through the tight twisties the longer carbide would be safer.

If you are riding at 60-80 mph the longer the carbide the sooner you can change the direction of the sled. This is an important consideration because TREES ALWAYS WIN!!!

If you weigh 250 – 300 lbs – go to the next longer carbide right away.

 

Why The Fastest Sled Does Not Always Win!

Studded Tracks

Full Track Pattern

Studs push the sled straight, so you must have enough carbide up front to overcome that push to turn! Studs in the outside bands will hold the sled tighter in the turns than the center only patterns but you have to lean harder into the turns.

If you put studs in the outside bands I suggest you place them in the center of the narrow bands with only a ¼” stickout. That way they will dig one scratchline when accelerating or braking. Combine that with the shorter stickout and the studs will put less stress on the track cords. When you are in a turn they will each create their own scratchline. Stud Installation History

If you have 96 studs, or less, in the track 4” carbides or 4” Triple Points would match up.

If you were to use the 6” carbide with 96 studs, the track would tend to break loose in the corners. If your tail end isn’t breaking loose, you are not going as fast around the corners as 6” carbides are capable of. You would get more miles of new carbide bite, for your money, if you put the cost difference towards a new sharp pair of 4” carbides.

If you were to use the 8” carbide with only 96 studs and take a corner as fast as a 8” carbide can, your tail end will pass you several times.

The 6” carbides and 6” Triple Points will work with 144 studs. If you sit down taking corners the 6” carbides will work fine. If you hang off the handlebars in the corners, use the 6” Triple Points.

If you use 192 studs the 8” carbides would be fine. The 8” Triple Points would be better and have been used with up to 288 studs.

 

Center Only Pattern

Studs in the center only push the sled straight so you will need longer turning carbide for the same number of studs.

96 studs in the center work fine with 6” carbides if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times. 6” Triple Point would be the choice if you weigh over 200 lbs.

144 - 162 studs in the center only can use 8” carbides if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times, or 8” Triple Points if you weigh over 200 lbs and like to fly by the seat of your pants.

Other Carbide Information

If you are going into a left turn, leaning into the turn increases pressure on the left sliderails. Having studs in the left outside band holds the sled tighter in the corner, than if the studs were only in the center.

Longer carbide does not translate into durability, unless you are only riding on bare pavement.
A 4” and a 10” carbide will dull at the same time because pavement takes an even cut whole length of the carbide so overkill does not pay. A sharp 4” will turn better on ice than a dull 10”.

If you have been satisfied riding with shorter carbides, than I suggest, you can still use the shorter length. Because TREES ALWAYS WIN! I want to make sure you can avoid them in hairy situations. If you don’t ride hard enough to get into hairy situations the less aggressive carbide is fine. There are no absolutes because of all the variables!

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